The setting of your jewelry is often considered part of the overall design aesthetic, but it is a functional choice, too, since it holds diamonds or other gemstones in place. Among your options: the bezel setting, a distinctive look characterized by encasing the diamond or gemstone in a band of metal.
Bezel settings can be found on all types of jewelry, from engagement rings and wedding bands to earrings, necklaces, and even bracelets. Each piece of bezel jewelry is unique, thanks to the many different styles that can be achieved in a bezel setting. It’s all about finding a piece that resonates most with you. If you’re looking for the perfect setting and you’re considering bezel jewelry, it’s good to familiarize yourself with the characteristics and charisma of this special style.
What is a bezel setting?
A bezel setting in jewelry—be it an engagement ring or fine jewelry—has the signature look of a metal ring or rim that encases single or multiple stones. The surrounding metal keeps the stone securely in place, making it an attractive option if you have fragile or delicate stones to set into your jewelry or if you’re someone who leads an active life.
A bezel setting is celebrated for its clean and contemporary appearance, but it is actually one of the oldest settings used in jewelry. The word “bezel” comes from the traditional French word for “ring” and this setting is often associated with vintage and antique jewelry.
Bezel settings most commonly feature round brilliant diamond cuts, but bezel jewelry can work with any diamond cut or gemstone based on your personal preference.
For engagement rings, prong or claw settings are still the most popular—in either a cathedral or classic 360 foundation—as these allow the most amount of light to hit the diamond and set it ablaze from every angle. They also appear more delicate compared to the chunkier bezel setting. Bezel-set engagement rings and wedding bands are growing in popularity, however, thanks to their more modern and minimalist aesthetic.
14K Oval Double Bezel Diamond Necklace
What Does a Bezel Engagement Ring Setting Look Like?
Bezel-set engagement rings differ from a cathedral and classic prong settings, both of which elevate the stone’s profile; with bezel settings, the stone is effectively set into the metal band of the ring, which makes it sit lower on the finger. Bezel settings create the illusion of a larger center stone—particularly in a platinum or white gold and diamond pairing.
Bezel settings can look very different depending on the piece of jewelry and the size of the stones. For example, a diamond solitaire engagement ring could feature a bezel-set center stone, or there could be smaller, bezel-set diamonds on the shoulders of an engagement ring or wedding band. A pair of diamond stud earrings could be bezel-set. You could even get a prong setting engagement ring with bezel-set diamonds on the band—the options are endless.
14K Yellow Gold Lab Grown Emerald Diamond East-West Bezel Engagement Ring
How Bezel Settings Affect the Brilliance of the Gemstone
Bezel settings cover more of the gemstone's surface compared to prong settings, which can slightly reduce the amount of light that enters the stone. However, a well-crafted bezel should still allow the gemstone to sparkle. The metal color, too, play an important role in the overall aesthetic of the gemstone.
What makes a high quality bezel setting?
Even, Secure Enclosure: The bezel should encircle the gemstone evenly, ensuring that it fits snugly against the stone. There should be no gaps or irregularities in the metalwork.
Smooth Edges: The edges of the bezel should be smooth and well-finished to avoid any rough spots that could potentially scratch the wearer or catch on clothing.
Polished Finish: The bezel should be polished to a high standard, creating a clean and reflective surface. This enhances the overall appearance and showcases the gemstone.
Attention to Detail: A well-crafted bezel setting demonstrates a jeweler's attention to detail. Every angle, curve, and junction should be carefully considered and executed. A bezel may look simple, but the design requires precision and expertise.
Written By: Team Tacori
